Ciao!
It may be almost the end of August but I’m still feeling full from the authentic pasta-making experience I had during my recent vacay to Milan. It was the last activity before my sister N and I left for the second half of our trip to Cinque Terre (more to come on that end).
When visiting Italy it’s always fun to take a cooking class. This time we booked an evening pasta and dessert session with Casa Pastrocchi. It was at the home of Chef Niccolò and his wife Francesca. Since others had to cancel, it turned out to be a private class for the two of us.
Chef Niccolò welcomed us and guided us into his kitchen where we would prepare a great Italian feast totally from scratch — including three shapes of pasta, two sauces and dessert.
Whipping up a traditional tiramisu
We started with dessert preparations since we were making Tiramisu — a classic Italian sweet treat that supposedly was first created in Northern Italy.
Chef Niccolò put us right to work, whipping the egg whites for the filling. As we prepped, he shared his background: “I grew up in the Tuscan region and then moved to Milan. I first learned how to cook from my grandma. My father is a chef and so am I,”said Niccolò. In addition to his culinary expertise, Niccolò is a Certified Italian Sommelier. “I have two souls food and wine,” he said.
Once the whites were stiff with peaks at the top we set them aside and beat the egg yolks with sugar. Soon it was time to add the mascarpone and then carefully fold in the whites. “The marscarpone should be very cold,” Niccolò directed while taking the tub of rich and creamy cheese out of the fridge.
Niccolò showed us how to make the Tiramisu, first dipping the ladyfinger biscuits in dark coffee and then layering them with the cheese mixture and dark chocolate bits. “I like the added crunch that the chocolate brings,” he said.
Dessert done and in the fridge. Check √, check √
Mix, knead, roll – making homemade pasta
Pastrocchi means messy and for sure we were going to get messy making our homemade egg pasta.
“Milan and Northern Italy make pasta with eggs,” said Niccolò. “In Southern Italy it’s poorer so they made it with water and flour. Pasta made with egg is better for pasta that you want to fill such as ravioli or tortellini. You have a higher flavor and thicker texture so you can fill it.” Egg pasta was born in Bologna.
Niccolò explained the flour-egg ratio: “It’s 100 grams semolina flour to 1 egg. Never use machines. Do volcano version by hand.” He placed some flour on the board and cracked the egg in the middle. Then we mixed from inside out grabbing a little flour at a time.
When mixed we used the edge of our palm to roll and fold the dough until it was a smooth ball.
We let the dough rest for 30 minutes. Check √, check √
Using a pasta machine
Once the pasta was done resting we were ready to roll. “When using a pasta machine we start with thicker to thinner,” said Niccolò. ” Use a middle number like 5. If the pasta machine has 12 levels use level 6. Put flour on dough and put the dough through the machine. Start on 0. Then go to 1. Then 2. Go up to 5.”
We made square and round ravioli, tortellini and hats, plus tagliatelle pasta. (Note: for tagliatelle roll, then flour, then dry for a bit.)
The soft and thick filling for the ravioli was a traditional one from the Bologna area made with Ricotta, Parmesan and nutmeg.
As for final prep: We cooked the ravioli and tortellini for 5 minutes. Tagliatelle cooked for 2-3 minutes and then cooked in the sauce.
Pasta all prepped. Check √, check √
The secrets to simmering Italian sauces
“We’re making two sauces tonight,” said Niccolò. “One tomato with pork. Cook the pork cheek or pancetta on low heat. Don’t burn the fat. Cook slowly in fry pan. Then take meat out and then cook tomato. Don’t add salt.” He used a jarred thin tomato sauce and cooked it on medium heat for 15-20 minutes.
Ooh, ooh, ooh, Niccolò said they cook a lot of wild boar in Tuscany. You let it marinate in red wine. It’s very intense. I’m glad we weren’t making that sauce.
Sauce 2 featured butter, sage, and lemon zest cooked on medium low heat so as not to burn the butter. Niccolò. recommended using organic lemons.
Sauces all cooked. Check √, check √
Buon appetito!
Are you hungry yet? Are you ready to make your own homemade pasta?
After a few hours cooking, we took off our aprons and sat down to eat our Italian meal complimented by wine selected by Niccolò. It had been a fun evening with a sense of accomplishment for all we had prepared. Everything was so good, so good, so good.
Tomorrow we would bid goodbye to Milan and journey onto Cinque Terre.
Judi















Reader L said: “I wish he had shown you a new way to cook a vegetable with your pasta. That was not a good recipe for tiramisu…raw eggs. I make mine with a cooked yolk custard and fold in the mascarpone with whipped cream. ”
Reader J said: “Yum! So, when do we come over for this dinner?!”